‘After tea, we headed off in search of lions – on foot’

Ditch the 4×4 and head off on your own two feet to get up close and personal with the Big Five

Sitting on my veranda, a few feet above the big lagoon which gives this camp its name, the smallest of three elephants (who have been taking a bath) pulls a branch from the nearest tree and follows his companions back into the bush. It is roughly a month before the rains come, making this area inaccessible – but at the moment, it’s one of the last places in the region that still has water. Impala come to drink, families of baboons scamper down to the water’s edge and one begins to sort through the departed elephant’s droppings in search of undigested food. A group of warthogs – tails as erect as poplars – trot in, then some kudu and a handful of wildebeest. Other than bird calls, there is silence. There are no other people, no vehicles, no internet, no phone signal.
I had come to Zambia for a very different sort of safari. There are, of course, many kinds – mobile safaris, guided game drives, aerial safaris – but none so far removed from the typical convoy of jeeps as the walking safari. The simple act of putting one foot after the other – for around six hours a day – makes you feel quite literally grounded, even contemplative. And though South Africa and Kenya may now be Africa’s best-known safari destinations, it was here in Zambia that the walking safari was invented, in the 1960s, by the legendary conservationist Norman Carr (affectionately known as Kakuli or “old buffalo bull”). And it is here, therefore, that one should experience it.
I opted for a week-long journey across the walking camps of South Luangwa. By day, we walked the bush in a small group, vibrations from our footfalls alerting the animals to our presence – seven humans walking in single file – as our technology-numbed senses gradually reawakened. We were accompanied by a team of three: scout Goodson out front, armed with a powerful rifle (that he’s never had to fire) and an ability to spot dangers of which the rest of us are blissfully unaware. Next was Billy, a guide whose bush knowledge is nothing short of encyclopaedic. Bringing up the rear (and making sure no one fell behind) was Justone, who’d build a fire on each morning hike to make tea and coffee – accompanied, naturally, by homemade cake – and whose bush skills would make Bear Grylls weep.
My journey began at Tafika Camp (where there’s even an internet connection), from which I had my one and only game drive – visiting a pride of lions snoozing in the late afternoon sun, and two solitary leopards caught in the beam of the searchlight after darkness had fallen. But it was soon time to leave the wheels behind.
The next day – up at 4.45, leaving at dawn for Chikoko Tree Camp – we canoed across the Luangwa River (giving the hippos a wide berth), then went onwards on foot: off into the bush, past herds of zebra and waterbuck, puku and rare Roan antelope. They are all prey for the carnivores so, unsurprisingly, they startled at our approach and ran to a safe distance, whence they regarded us with ears twitching and a steady gaze, assessing whether we represented a threat. Deciding we were merely a curiosity, they watched us with almost as much interest as we watched them.
Billy imparted information constantly. Don’t stand under a sausage tree as the fruits are heavy enough to knock you out – but they are nectar to hippos. Impala droppings mark their territory, and leopards roll in them so the impala can’t smell them coming. Young zebras get their mother’s healthy gut bacteria not from her milk, but by eating her poo. Cobwebs catch moonlight to lure insects into the nests of spiders. The nuts of the fried egg tree make fine dancing anklets. An aptly named lilac-breasted roller lives up to its name with acrobatics worthy of a Spitfire pilot.
At Chikoko, after around four hours of walking, we were welcomed with cold towels, cold drinks and coolish showers (the water gets hot by the afternoon). I gratefully retired to my thatched chalet – two floors, with a bathroom downstairs and bedroom above – to rest in the heat of the day then, after tea, we headed off in search of lions. On foot. We found them, too: lionesses and cubs having their usual afternoon nap, stirring at our approach, knowing that someone was there but – as we were downwind – not quite sure who.
One of the lionesses stood up, watching us, stretched, and settled. For several minutes, I felt her amber eyes bore unblinkingly into my own, which was, of course, ridiculous, not least because I was watching her through binoculars. Nevertheless, it was a gaze not easily forgotten. Then the dominant male arrived, chased off his younger brother, and rumbled a warning that it was time for us to leave. We took the hint.
The next morning, we left at six, in search of the giraffes who had so far been inexplicably absent. Instead, we found elephants – which, it turns out, are of greater concern for walkers than the lions. Apparently, lions can be deflected if you shout (this I find hard to believe); but nothing will stop a charging elephant, easily provoked if you invade their territory, or if the younger males (described by Billy as “the naughty ones”) decide to show off. We changed course, but all of a sudden there they were again. Luckily, Goodson spotted them first – making out a pair of flapping ears through the dry season grass, even higher than an elephant’s eye, and diving into the bush.
After another four-hour walk – strolling through blessedly shady areas, scrambling up and down the sandy banks of long-dry riverbeds, and leaping across the most uneven of stepping stones, churned up as mud by hippos then baked hard by the sun – we reached Big Lagoon Camp, our final destination. Here were just three chalets, all with huge windows facing out over the eponymous lagoon, covered with a kind of trellis to fox any curious night visitors while allowing a much-needed breeze. There was also most basic of kitchens, from which delicious food nevertheless arrived seemingly non-stop, and – most importantly – on our first walk, were those elusive giraffes at last.
The walking safari may seem an odd, even extreme, choice at first, but it was an extraordinary experience, and one I will certainly repeat. Connected to the earth, eye to eye with the many residents of the bush, there can be no finer way to get under the skin of Africa – and, more importantly, to let it get under yours.
Anna Selby was a guest of Remote Africa, and of Yellow Zebra, which offers six nights in Zambia from £4,894 per person, based on two people travelling. This includes one night at Latitude 15, B&B; one night at Tafika; two nights at Chikoko Tree; and two nights at Big Lagoon (all Remote Africa properties), on a full-board basis (excluding premium spirits or wines), including safari activities, internal transfers, and international flights.
Wildlife Worldwide has the Classic Luangwa Walking trip in South Luangwa National Park From £8,495pp, staying in three unique camps (with five nights in a tented camp and a further five in a mobile camp) all of them magnets for the local wildlife, particularly leopards. Includes international and local flights, all accommodation, meals and guided activities. June to September 2025.
If you’d like to combine walks with a river voyage, African Bush Camps has a nine-night safari (three each at Thorntree River, Lolobezi and Sungani Lodges) from £9,384pp, including walks, game drives, a cruise on the Zambezi River, and a visit to Victoria Falls. Includes all-inclusive accommodation, meals, transfers and activities, but excludes international flights. Departures April to October 2025.
Just You has a 14-day Uganda – Gorillas in the Mist walking safari (as well as game drives and boat rides) for solo travellers from £7,499pp, including flights from London, accommodation, meals and excursions. The trip involves seeing not only gorillas, but chimpanzees and the white rhinos that have recently been re-introduced. Departures May, July and September 2025.
For lovers of the great outdoors, in Namibia, you can trek across desert trails, camping under the stars and enjoying braais over open fires. Much Better Adventures has a 10-day safari from £1,612pp, excluding flights, but including all permits, entry fees and transfers, tents and sleeping mats for desert camping and most meals. Departures February to November 2025.
Aardvark Safaris has just launched a brand new Cheetah Trail walking experience, on which you track the world’s fastest animal for 10-15km each day, staying in off-grid luxury tents with one night under the stars in a mobile camp. From £1,434pp for three nights, including all meals, house wines and trackers, but excluding flights. Available all year round.
Responsible Travel has wildlife tours of Madagascar with night walks, guided walks with expert ornithologists, and self-guided hikes where you can look out for lemurs, sifakas, tortoises, reptiles and birds. From £4,950pp for 21 days including flights, local transport, accommodation, entrance fees and guides.
The Ultimate Travel Company has a three-day walking safari in Zimbabwe From £5795pp, including BA flights, all food, drink and safari activities. The trip follows the mighty Zambezi River through the Mana Pools National Park with a mobile camp, with a further two nights in the rustic luxury of Camp Zambezi.
Desert and Delta Safaris specialises in northern Botswana, including Camp Okavango in the Unesco-protected Okavango Delta, where you can travel by boat to island bush walks. An all-inclusive week of walking safaris costs from £3,600pp, excluding international flights. Departures January to March 2025.
And if you don’t want to commit to too much walking, how about a camel? Aardvark Safaris offers Kenyan safaris – to, for instance, the Laikipia region, or the Mathews Range to the north of Mount Kenya – with a camel as your transport, from £1,806pp for a three-nights tailor-made experience. Available all year round.
For the walk of a lifetime (if you have three weeks to spare) Rambler Worldwide has 20 days of leisurely walking in Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia and South Africa – with game drives and river cruises plus a visit to the Victoria Falls – from £5,999pp, including return flights, transfers, all accommodation and most meals, guides, all local travel and entrance fees. Departures on March 19, September 3 and October 14 2025.